Shanghaied in Istanbul

Sunday dinner. Tres' friend, Ian Stewart, recommended Nevizade Sokak, a pedestrian street and neighborhood of meyhanes (taverns) known for their mezes (cold appetizers).

Check out the review from Istanbul Trails: http://www.istanbultrails.com/2008/12/nevizade-sokak-is-your-safest-bet-for-a-great-night-out-in-istanbul/

This sounded great for a light dinner with the locals. Tres found it on the map, but stopped at the concierge desk on the way out of the hotel to ask for directions. At the mention of this destination, the concierge's face contorted into a look that said, "You don't want to go there." "It's just for locals," he said. "I am comfortable there. You would not be comfortable. Loud drinking. Food OK. Not elegant."

This is the problem staying in a hotel for rich, white people. They assume you only want to do rich, white people things.

We assured him that we wanted to eat with the locals. We don't want fancy tonight. A friend recommended the mezes and we want to give it a try. He tried again to steer us in a different direction, but we insisted, so he provided directions and escorted us through the lobby to a waiting taxi.

When we got in the cab, we recognized the driver as the same one who had taken us to Aya Sofya earlier in the day. Very nice guy. Good English. Tres said, "Merhaba, Nevizade Sokak, lutfen" (Hello, Nevizade street, please). The taxi driver gave us the same look as the concierge. "Dinner?" he asked. "Evet" (Yes). "No. No good for dinner. Only drinking. Loud. Crowded. Only for locals. No tourists. They bother you. Bad fish. Only four or five good restaurant in Istanbul. I take you to good place for fish." "No," we said, "a friend recommended this neighborhood and we want to try it." No, no good. I know good place. I take you. Good fish. View of water." One more time, "No, we want Nevizade Sokak. Maybe we will try your place tomorrow night." He started driving, not in the direction of Nevizade Sokak. "I take you to restaurant. You look, then Nevizade Sokak. Five, ten minute." We like this guy, and we trust him to a point, but we were a little concerned, not for our safety, but it was clear we were not going to win this argument. "OK, we will take a look."

Now, you all know that the game was up at that point. There is no way we were going to get to this place and be able to talk our way back into going where we wanted to go. We were at his mercy. As the kilometers clicked by and the meter rang up, we had another concern. We only had enough Turkish Liras for the short ride to Nevizade Sokak and back to the hotel. This "five, ten minute" ride was going to require most of our remaining TL, leaving us with only Euros to get home, and they are not universally accepted (1 Turkish Lira = $0.68, 1 Euro = $1.50). Tres was relieved to recognize the area we were driving to along the Sea of Marmara. We had driven this way coming in from the airport the night before. We finally reached our destination with more assurances that this was the place to go. "OK, we will try it."

Here is where we ended up: http://www.surbalik.com/Defaulteng.asp

Sur Balik is apparently well known in Istanbul for fine seafood. We'll have to take their word for it. The web site has an English translation, but the reviews are all in Turkish.

We were seated at a window table in the upstairs dining room and greeted by our
waiter, Hamit. We were presented with a large tray of cold mezes for our selection and we requested a sampling. The main course offerings are very simple. Grilled fish. They have more than a dozen from which to choose. We chose a fat fresh sea bream caught in the Bosphorus Strait that afternoon.

Hamit returned with a plate of mezes for us to share, including feta cheese, roasted red pepper, pickles, red bean salad, chili paste, yogurt with spinach and garlic, braised greens, boiled shrimp, mackerel with soy sauce, tuna pastrami wrapped around green onion and rolled in lettuce, marinated white fish, and stuffed anchovies (the name in English must be a metaphor as these didn't taste of anchovy at all. As the Turkish name, Hamsi Dolma, would suggest, they were cabbage leaves stuffed with rice). All of these bites were excellent. Next came a salad of mixed lettuces, cucumbers, and tomatoes in lemon juice and olive oil. And then, the fish.

One side had been filleted and grilled on the flesh. The other side, still on the bone, was also grilled flesh-side down. I was served the filleted side, dusted with herbs, drizzled with olive oil and lemon, and sprinkled with salt. They filleted the other side at the table, which they served to Tres. Both plates were garnished with a boiled potato, fresh red onion, and fresh tomato. The fish was absolutely outstanding. Perfectly fresh, tasting purely of the sea. Moist and flaky. Dinner was followed by a dessert of sliced green apple and almond liqueur.

It wasn't what we intended, but it was a great meal and a lovely evening. We enjoyed the best of local seafood and the company of an excellent waiter. We don't know if our friendly, but obstinate taxi driver had only our best interests for a great dinner at heart, or if he was just another hustler in a city full of them working for a kickback. It doesn't matter. We made the best of it, as we always do, and had a great time. The return taxi driver was happy to take our Euros and we made it back to the Ritz for another restful night.

P.S. - The Ritz publishes an "Istanbul Daily" sheet with the day's weather, hotel news, fun facts, and local tips. Monday's edition had the following recommendation: "For drinks and a meal in a lively atmosphere, visit the narrow streets of Nevizade in Beyoglu. Nevizade...is a good place for traditional Turkish bars and restaurants. From a table you can watch street sellers and the evening life of the city."

That's what we had heard!!! :-) Oh well, maybe Monday night.