Another Day in Old Town

We have been blessed by Allah with perfect weather in Istanbul. 70 and sunny every day, very rare for November. We began the day Monday with breakfast in the hotel. I had coffee and brioche French toast. Tres had apple tea and a Mediterranean plate. After breakfast, we went downstairs for another infusion of Turkish Liras and a walk around the grounds. The Ritz-Carlton is part of an office tower, somewhat isolated on a hill in the New District, overlooking the Istanbul Besiktas Football Stadium, and the water beyond.

Now back to Old Town and the Blue Mosque. We arrived at Sultanahmet park between prayer services and took the stroll by the fountain toward the Sultan Ahmet Mosque, as it is known by the locals in honor of the ruler who commissioned and financed it at the peak of the Ottoman Empire in 1609. It was completed in just seven years, but sapped the treasury and marked the stagnation and eventual decline of the empire.

The tourist moniker, Blue Mosque, comes from the rich blues in the tiles lining the interior. The enormous central dome, surrounding semi-domes, and cupolas are mainly supported by just four gigantic columns in the four corners called "elephant feet." This one has a fountain, no longer in use, for bathing worshipers' feet.

Muslim services are segregated. Men in front, women in the back. All worshipers must remove their shoes and cover their arms and legs. Women must cover their heads as well. Visitors are asked to do the same and to stay behind the railing that defines the area where men worship. As progressive Westerners, we may view this as subjugation of women. As visitors, we respect the traditions of the Mosque and the faith of the Muslim people. Unfortunately, many of our fellow travelers refused to honor these requests. Whether out of protest or ignorance, this is a shame. Here I am in my headscarf.

The interior is stunningly beautiful. Just above head level there are giant candelabras that once held oil lamps with floating wicks. They are now electrified. The dome soars above the lights.

With our shoes back on and my scarf back in my purse, we descended the stairs, strode out through the inner and outer courtyards and rested in the sun on a bench. The next call to prayer rang out from minarets all around us, echoing off the walls of the city as they have for thousands of years. Beautiful, haunting, melodic chants. Especially in this location, surrounded by the Blue Mosque on one side and Aya Sofya on the other, the call elicits an overwhelming sense of peace, calm, and order in a city of chaos.

It was time for a late lunch and Tres wanted kebabs. We caught a taxi off of Sultanahmet park and headed for the best kebabs in Istanbul.

Rules for hailing a cab:

1. Hail a moving taxi, not one standing - Check
2. Make sure there is a meter - Check
3. Don't accept flat rates and ask the driver to start the meter - Check

Most meters start at TL2.50 and creep up slowly. Most rides are about TL15.00. This meter started at TL3.50 and raced higher by the second. It is a short ride to the restaurant. TL10.00, max. By the time we got there, the meter read TL25.00. How are we going to argue with this guy? Tres made an attempt, but agreed to pay. Then the driver wouldn't accept our TL20.00 note because a very small part of one corner was missing. "Bank problem," he said. Fine, we gave him another one. He protested that one too. Tres called bullshit and we jumped out onto Eminonu Square, ever vigilant, for Kebabs at Hamdi Restaurant:

http://www.hamdirestorant.com.tr/

Five floors up, on the terrace, overlooking Eminonu Square, the Golden Horn, the Galata Bridge, and the Galata tower in the New District beyond, this is a stunning location. And the kebabs were amazing.

We ordered a sampler of four different types. Marinated chunks of beef, and three different types of lamb, beef, and veal minced together. One was spicy, another had ground pistachio nuts, the third was wrapped in a soft flat bread. All grilled over charcoal, removed from their skewers, and served with grilled tomatoes, chopped fresh herbs, and a spicy onion salad. Outstanding!!! For dessert, tea and a warm pastry of shredded filo dough, stuffed with cheese, and soaked in honey syrup. They called it Angel's Hair. Way better than baklava!!!

On to the Spice Market, just across Eminonu Square. Originally a general bazaar, this market was gradually overtaken by spice merchants. Less chaotic and overwhelming than the Grand Bazaar, but more colorful and definitely more fragrant. The smell of exotic spices permeates, but the merchandise is pretty tired. Cheap spices, in both quality and cost, in open bins, are cross-contaminated freely. There are a few butcher shops and kebab stands. There is also a lot of kitch. Imported souvenir ceramics and fabrics. Knock-off purses and perfume. A hard sell from every vendor. My favorite line: "How can I help separate you from your money?" Honest and original the first time, but it gets old. This is Pike Place Market East, a few locals buying spices, but mostly tourists buying crap. Still, another beautiful historic building and the best smelling scam around.

That's it for Monday. We will spend the day in the New District tomorrow, and then embark the Oceania Nautica to set sail for Singapore.