Limassol, Cyprus

Saturday, November 14th
Route of the Ancient Traders
Day 4
M/S Nautica
Limassol, Cyprus
Partly Cloudy – 66 Degrees

Cypriots will tell you that they have been an independent island nation and a democracy since 1960, but that is only half of the modern story.






Cyprus, like Rhodes, has the curse and blessing of a great location, at the confluence of Europe, Asia, and Africa. The island has been invaded, occupied, and ruled by every major empire in the history of the region, most notably, the ancient Greeks. The majority of the people identify themselves as Greek, ethnically, religiously, and culturally. They represent 80% of the population and call themselves Greek Cypriots. Another 17% are Turkish Cypriots.

While Cyprus has a distinctly Greek feel, there are remnants of the British Empire, the most recent colonial power on the island, as well. Cypriots drive on the left side of the road, their currency is the Cyprus pound, and there are two British military bases still in operation today. It was from the British that they gained independence in 1960 in an agreement that included Greek and Turkish approval.

After independence, Cyprus allied itself with Greece, and looked to Athens for direction in the world. The majority Greek Cypriots governed the island in a power sharing agreement with the minority Turk Cypriots. The president was a Greek, the vice president a Turk.

In 1974, the president of Cyprus was in talks with the Greek government regarding annexation. When Cyprus pulled out of the agreement, the Greeks assassinated the president. Turkey took advantage of the power vacuum and invaded Cyprus. They took 37% of the landmass, including half of the capitol, Nicosia. It is now called the Turkish Republic of Northern Cyprus.

The island remains divided today with walls and checkpoints separating Greek and Turkish Cypriot brothers. Nicosia is the only remaining divided capitol in the world. Cyprus President Dimitris Chrostofias has been in office for about a year. He has approached the Turkish Republic and reunification talks are in progress. A referendum to the people for reunification is expected soon.

The ancient ruins of Kourion form a well preserved and restored Greco-Roman site including the House of Eustolios, the residence of a nobleman, a theater, and various other excavations.

The House of Eustolios has been excavated and preserved under a canopy, like the Terrace Houses of Ephesus.



The house is huge, the floors covered in intricate mosaics. With many rooms, quarters for the servants downstairs, and indoor plumbing, we would be comfortable living there today.














The theater, built in the 2nd Century B.C., hosts a full performance schedule, including the International Festival of Ancient Greek Drama, from May to October each year. Perched high on a cliff, this spectacular location offers incredible views of the ruins and the Mediterranean below.


The form of the theater is faithful to the original, but little of the original remains. It is essentially new construction from the 1970s using some stones dating back to the 2nd Century. It would be a great place to watch a performance, set amid the ancient history, but it isn’t really an historical artifact itself.

The Sanctuary of Apollo is a short distance away, with stunning Cypro-Corinthian columns. The sanctuary is the largest and one of the most important religious centers on the island and had been continuously used from the late 8th Century B.C. to the second half of the 4th Century A.D. Apollo was regarded as the God of light, sun, poetry, music and the woodland protector of the city of Kourion. The SouthWest side of the temple has been restored and excavations at the site have revealed other structures at the sanctuary, such as the bath complex, the pilgrim halls, the palaistra and a holy precinct.

Cyprus has a rich tradition of winemaking, a sweet red dessert wine that is unique to this island. The grapes are grown and pressed, and the wine made, in traditional hilltop villages that have clung to the old ways of life. Omodos Village is among the most beautiful. We toured a lovely Greek Orthodox church on the main square, the monastery of the Holy Cross, and then the restored wine press Linos. We sat with the locals for a rest and a drink at a little café. Both sides of the door and all four walls were adorned with no smoking signs, but virtually everyone was smoking. This is a place that resists the ways of the outside world.

Next stop: Haifa, Israel