Istanbul New District and M/S Nautica

Up, packed, and ready to go on Tuesday morning. We checked out of the Ritz and stored our bags, knowing we would miss the plush beading, powerful shower, and friendly staff for the next 40 days at sea.

We took a taxi to Taksim Square, the center of the New District, and in fact, the “New Turkey.” This sprawling square, more of a parking lot really, anchors the top of the hill in the primary commercial district of Istanbul, home to shops, restaurants, apartments, offices, and embassies. The square is anchored at one end by a cultural arts center dedicated to the founder of the Republic, Ataturk. At the other end of the square is the Monument to the Republic, blockaded and under armed guard.

Istiklal Caddesi, a pedestrian stroll, runs downhill from the monument. There are no cars, but an historic tram runs down the center of the street from top to bottom. The street is packed with locals, on both sides and down the middle, until the tram passes by clanking its bells to move people off the tracks. The shops are mostly local and every few feet there is a take-away stand or a little café with tables in front.

The French embassy is near the top of the street and right next door is our destination for lunch, Ist Café. I had eggs Florentine and Tres had house-made beef meatballs with roasted potatoes and rice. We finished with an outstanding chocolate soufflé garnished with sweetened mascarpone cheese. A nice lunch with a view of the lively street scene.

After lunch, we continued our walk downhill in the sun. The neighborhood is studded with art, monuments, and historical sites. Little alleyways run this way and that with more things to see. It was a great way to end our time in Istanbul. A stark contrast to the ancient holy and tourist sites of the Old Town, Istiklal Caddesi is modern, secular, local, and very European, much like the pedestrian streets at the heart of cities across the Continent.

We took a taxi back to the Ritz to collect our bags, and then another to the cruise terminal. Our last driver in Istanbul was the best. Gregarious and full of information, a native of Anatolia. We weren’t even out of the hotel parking lot before he said, “You like Obama?” Yes, we love Obama!” “All Europe love Obama!” he replied. He ranked his favorite US Presidents, with analysis:

1. Kennedy
2. Obama
3. Clinton
4. Roosevelt, Franklin Delano

How many Americans could rank US presidents, let alone name a single leader in the history of the Byzantine or Ottoman empires or the Republic of Turkey? A history much longer and prouder than our own.

Actually, we heard Obama all over Istanbul, mostly from salesmen. They would say, “You American? Obama!” If we didn’t respond or stop to shop they would go to plan B, “Deutch?” It’s good to know that fat, dumb, Germans are right behind fat, dumb Americans in the race for scorn and commerce.

As we pulled into the cruise terminal, we said we would return to Istanbul someday, to which our driver replied, “Insallah” (God willing). Amen!

We cleared passport control and boarded the ship in record time.

This is our first cruise with the Oceania line, and our first on the M/S Nautica. Oceania is what I would call a mid-luxury line. A cut above Holland America and Princess, but not to the level of Seaborne or Crystal. We have high hopes, but realistic expectations.

Here are the stats on the ship:

Year Built: 1998
Year Refurbished: 2003
Gross Tonnage: 30,277
Length: 593.7 feet
Beam: 83.5 feet
Max. Draught: 19.5 feet
Cruising Speed: 18 knots
Guest Capacity: 684
Crew Size: 400
Country of Registry: Marshall Islands

The décor of the ship is understated elegance, a welcome relief from the garish, overdone, in-your-face design of most ships. With just 550 passengers, 80% of capacity, the Nautica feels spacious and not overcrowded. There is no climbing wall, no skating rink or put-put golf, but plenty of amenities to keep us happy, including a total of five dining venues. Restaurant reviews to follow.

We are in Cabin 8005, a Penthouse Suite. 322 square feet of efficiency with a veranda. We are on the starboard side, just aft of the bridge. Two single beds, a loveseat, a small dining table with two chairs, a desk area, two small closets, and a tiny bathroom. It will be just fine for the next 40 days. We have met our butler, Ray and our cabin stewardess, Anastasia. We have unpacked all six bags and we are settled in for a comfortable journey.




After a tour of the ship and dinner in the steakhouse, Polo Grill, we set sail from our berth at the merge of the Golden Horn and the Bosphorus at about 11:00 PM. Istanbul was cloaked in a smoky, misty haze of darkness as we sailed past Aya Sofya and the Blue Mosque, and into the Sea of Marmara.

Next stop: Kusadasi, Turkey.