Luxor, Egypt

Monday, November 23rd
Route of the Ancient Traders
Day 13
Overland
Luxor, Egypt
Clear – 84 Degrees

We survived the late-night and early-morning construction noise at the Sonesta St. George and a cold shower in the whiz-bang bathroom that has everything but hot water.

We crossed the Nile to the West Bank and the Valley of the Kings. At this archaeological site, still being discovered, they have unearthed more than 60 tombs of Pharaohs and noblemen to date. We visited three of the best: Ramses VI, Ramses II, and Tutankhamen. To control pollution and access to the site, there is a visitor transfer center at the bottom of the hill. From there, we rode to the tombs on an open trolley.

The tomb of Ramses VI is among the best preserved in the Valley of the Kings. The hieroglyphics still retain vivid color, but all of the treasure is long gone, having been looted by generations of grave robbers. The tomb is carved into the side of the mountain, with only a low-profile entrance at the surface.

Unfortunately, photography is strictly forbidden inside the tombs. However, our guide gave us a set of postcards, three of which we have reproduced here. Yes, that is what we have come to: taking digital pictures of postcards. Once inside, you descend down a long ramp of stone to the burial chamber. Every surface of the stone has been decorated with hieroglyphics, telling the life story of the Pharaoh and his transcendence into the next life.

At the bottom of the tomb, you emerge into a much larger room. The sarcophagus stood at the center of the room and was surrounded by smaller rooms on three sides that were filled with treasure. The outer sarcophagus was carved from a massive block of granite. This still remains in the tomb, but it has been broken in half, the jagged pieces at odd angles. The lid would have lifted off to reveal the golden, jewel encrusted sarcophagus within, and the mummy of the Pharaoh inside of that. The mummification process was very advanced. They would remove all internal organs, except for the heart, drain all fluids from the body, and leave the flesh to dehydrate. It was then draped in linen and entombed. This was thought to be the best way to preserve the body for the afterlife.

Though King Tut's tomb eluded the grave robbers, there is actually very little to see as all of the treasure is on display at the Egyptian Museum in Cairo, or on tour at a museum near you. His mummy, however, is still entombed several stories below the surface and is on display. He is very small and has turned black with age. Creepy!!!

We climbed out of King Tut's tomb and out of the Valley to the terraced mortuary temple of Queen Hatshepsut. This temple is unique in that it is carved into the side of the mountain and has a very modern look.

Then, we stopped to gawk the immense pair of statues known as the Colossi of Memnon, all that remains of a huge funerary complex built in the 14th Century B.C. They stand 50 feet tall at the edge of a parking lot.


Finally, we toured Medinet Habu, the mortuary temple of Ramses III.

We waited for another convoy and the three hour return drive to Safaga and the M/S Nautica.

Luxor provides visitors with a much more pleasing impression of Egypt. The local government has taken an active role in removing the litter and presenting the sites of antiquity in a thoughtful way. Large, open plazas and modern visitor centers make you feel welcome. The hard sell is still on, but it is less invasive than in Cairo. Though not as spectacular or inspirational as the pyramids, the tombs and temples of Luxor offer a more open window onto the past. We leave Egypt tonight with reverence for the relics of the ancients and a better understanding of their modern descendants.

Next Stop: Aqaba, Jordan