Christmas Island

Wednesday, October 17th
South Pacific
Day 17
ms Westerdam
At Anchor
Christmas Island, Kiribati
Line Islands
Sunny - 85 Degrees

Merry Christmas!!!

OK, so it's not Christmas and we aren't merry, but we did spend the day at anchor in the harbor at Christmas Island, or Kiritimati, the largest coral atoll by area in the world.

This was not a scheduled stop.

Yesterday, as the ship turned on anchor at one of the most primitive and remote inhabited islands in the world, one of our fellow passengers fell ill and had to be evacuated from the ship.  Cruise line policy, and moral obligation, dictates that a sick passenger cannot be disembarked to medical facilities and capabilities inferior to those on board the ship.  Obviously, Fanning Island does not meet that standard, nor does it have an airstrip from which the patient could be evacuated.  Hawaii is a two day sail away, in the wrong direction.  Pape'ete could offer adequate care, but that is at least three days at sea, albeit in the right direction.  So, with limited options, the captain and chief medical officer, in consultation with the home office in Seattle, made the call to sail to neighboring Christmas Island, which has an airstrip, where the patient would be offloaded at first light and medevac'ed to Hawaii for treatment.  This route would take us about 130 nautical miles and several hours off course, but we would still be able to reach our next port on time.

Westerdam arrived at Christmas Island this morning, on time, at about 6:00.  Unfortunately, for reasons still not understood, the medical evacuation flight that had been arranged was abruptly canceled.  Again, remote island, inadequate facilities, sick passenger stable, but in need of care, and a ship at anchor, losing time.

Now, not one of us would trade places with the patient, and I don't expect your sympathy, but I do want you to fully understand the special kind of hell we have sailed into.  We are at anchor in a lovely bay, tropical paradise in every direction, but we can't get off the ship.  Cabin fever is setting in, with two sea days and a port day spent on board ship behind us, and three days at sea still ahead before we next sight land.  As the hours pass, time is lost that can't be made up.  Three hours.  Six hours.  Nine hours.  Twelve hours.  The sun has set over Christmas Island.  Darkness upon us, depression setting in, we retreat to our cabins and the distraction of satellite television.  Channel after channel, we have no reception, just the Holland America Line logo, in blue, set against a white background.  Satellite reception is minimal in the South Pacific, coverage lost, save for one lonely channel, just one source of information in the lead up to a close and critical national election,...FOX ******* NEWS!!!!!!!!!  Insanity sets in.

Finally, after nearly 15 hours floating in the bay at Christmas Island, a United States Coast Guard medical evacuation flight has landed.  We wish bon voyage and God speed to our fellow passenger, and set sail into the night.

We all know, we have lost too much time.  We can't make it up.  The itinerary will have to be altered.

Our stop at the Cook Islands, a highlight of the trip, has been canceled.  The snorkeling cruise to Muri Lagoon is not to be.  The rest of the itinerary has been moved up one day, with an extra day at the end in Pape'ete.

We are disappointed, but we are men and women of the sea, and we understand.  Mechanical failure, weather disturbances, medical emergencies.  We roll with the tides, and go where the winds and waves take us.  Still, we have concerns.  Why did it take more than 24 hours to medevac a seriously ill passenger, putting the patient, and the ship's itinerary, at risk?  Was it necessary to cancel a port of call entirely?  Why was the rest of the schedule changed?  We accept the challenges inherent in sea travel, but we also expect the very best management and mitigation possible, without which there is unnecessary and unacceptable risk and inconvenience.

Next Stop:  Raiatea, French Polynesia

Postscript:

The captain held an open forum several days later and responded to passenger questions about this incident.  Most importantly, the patient made it safely back to Hawaii and is recovering after successful treatment.  The captain more fully explained the circumstances that lead to the delay, and we are satisfied that every effort was made to do the best thing for the patient, and for the rest of the passengers.  We do believe that the best could have, and should have, been better, and will be the next time.