Friday, December 25, 2009
Trip of a Lifetime!!!
Edmonds, USA
We have been fortunate to take many Trips of a Lifetime, but this one uniquely justifies the term.
Our Route of the Ancient Traders has taken us literally around the world. We have traveled 14,347 air miles and 8,725 nautical miles through 13 countries on three continents, spanning more than five thousand years of history.
We have toured the shrines of 8 world religions, cities of the past and cities of the future, lush and desert natural landscapes, sailed the high seas and floated high in the Dead Sea. We have seen the triumph of human achievement and the depths of human despair, rich and poor, clean and unclean, at war and in peace. These are places long forgotten and places making news every day.
On this trip, every stop was a highlight, but here are ten of our best memories:
The Blue Mosque of Istanbul
Remembrance Day at Gallipoli
The Wailing Wall in Jerusalem
The Birthplace of Jesus in Bethlehem
Floating in the Dead Sea
The Pyramids of Giza
The World's Tallest Building in Dubai
The Taj Mahal of India
The National Orchid Garden in Singapore
The Skyline of Hong Kong
Truly, The Trip of a Lifetime!!!
Acknowledgements: While the vast majority of the words and pictures posted below are our own, we must acknowledge the contributions of others to our understanding of the places we have been and the retelling of our adventures here. Destination and tour descriptions from Oceania were a starting point, filled out with information provided by our tour guides, travel books, and Internet resources like Wikipedia. The information provided is accurate to the best of our knowledge, however it has not been independently verified and should not be relied upon. In some cases, we have had to divine fact and fiction from contradictory sources. We have included maps, diagrams, and photographs from the Internet as well. In such instances, we have retained any notices of copyright embedded in the original images. While there is no universal truth and very little new discovery in a world growing smaller and older by the day, we have enjoyed immensely the search for our own truth and we have felt privileged to have you with us along the way.
Hong Kong, China
Hong Kong, China
Mostly Sunny - Mid 70s
Tuesday, December 22nd
Hong Kong is at the Southern tip of China, surrounding Victoria Harbor in the South China Sea. Hong Kong Island proper is just one of the many islands that, along with part of the mainland called the New Territories, comprise Hong Kong.
The Chinese surrendered Hong Kong Island to the British Empire after the First Opium War in 1842 and the colony grew in stages to include the Kowloon Peninsula and the New Territories by 1898. With the exception of Japanese occupation during World War II, the British reign of Hong Kong was peaceful and prosperous, the Crown Colony becoming one of the world's great financial capitals and a beacon of capitalism at the foot of Communist China, but the British were living on borrowed time. The lease on the New Territories was due to expire and would not be renewed. The Sino-British Joint Declaration was signed in 1984, transferring sovereignty of Hong Kong to the People's Republic of China in 1997 with the stipulation that Hong Kong would be governed as a Special Administrative Region (SAR) under the principle "one country, two systems." Hong Kong would maintain its political and economic systems with significant autonomy, extending to all matters except foreign affairs and defense, for the next 50 years of Chinese control. The Hong Kong Basic Law, ratified in 1990, is the founding document and constitution of the SAR. The transfer of sovereignty occurred at midnight on July 1, 1997, marked by a handover ceremony at the Hong Kong Convention and Exhibition Centre. Under a blanket of fireworks, Prince Charles and the Governor General sailed out of Victoria Harbor on the Royal Yacht Britannia, as the sun set on another front of the British Empire.
Under Chinese control, Hong Kong has remained a vibrant international financial center with low taxes, free trade, and minimal interference under the doctrine of "positive non-interventionism." The judiciary is governed by the Anglo tradition of common law and the legislative and executive branches are partly selected through multi-party elections with universal suffrage.
With a land mass of just more than 1,000 square kilometers and a population of seven million people, Hong Kong is one of the most densely populated cities in the world. The population is 95% ethnic Chinese and traces of British rule in language and culture are rapidly receding.
Our flight out of Singapore was delayed, landing in Hong Kong at about 9:30. We had arranged for a car and driver to take us into the city and the Sheraton Hong Kong Hotel and Towers. Just two days ago, on December 20th, a new bridge opened on the route from Lantau Island and the airport to the New Territories. The Stonecutters Bridge is the second longest high level cable-stayed span in the world at more than 1,000 meters and was featured on "Extreme Engineering" on the Discovery Chanel. It is a graceful bridge and a stunning introduction to the city.
It is tempting when visiting Hong Kong to think Hong Kong Island is the best place to stay, but the best views are from Kowloon looking across Victoria Harbor to the skyline of the city, which is just a nine minute ride away on the Star Ferry. The Peninsula, Hong Kong's historic hotel, is in Kowloon. The Sheraton is right next door.
We arrived at the hotel tired and hungry at 10:30. We checked in and upgraded to a city view room on the club floor. The view from the room was spectacular. Front and center, with a framed view of the harbor and the Hong Kong skyline. The city is lit-up for Christmas, most of the major towers with light displays. We admired the view for just a minute before rushing downstairs to The Cafe before closing.
The Cafe is a casual international buffet and al a carte restaurant with a little bit of everything. We rushed in just before they closed the doors. In the mood for something familiar, I had my international standard, a club sandwich. Tres had wonton soup, rich broth with noodles, sesame prawn dumplings, and bok choy, spiked with a red vinegar dipping sauce. With just chop sticks and a spoon to navigate, he was covered in broth by the time he swallowed the last slurp. We finished with a traditional Chinese delight, chocolate Haagen-Dazs ice cream, and called it a night.
Wednesday, December 23rd
We are really lucky to have great weather in Hong Kong. The sun is out and it's a comfortable 70 degrees. Even in the sunshine, the pollution filters the light through a heavy haze. There is no sting in the eyes and the back of the throat as there was in India, but there is the omnipresent feeling that your glasses are dirty. We crossed the street to the Kowloon waterfront and the promenade along the water. The views of the Hong Kong skyline are incredible from this vantage, but compromised by the haze of pollution and the scale of the city. You can't take it all in with a single glance or frame of film.
The symbol of Kowloon is the old Clock Tower. There is a museum and arts complex along the harbor including the Hong Kong Cultural Center, Hong Kong Space Museum, Science Theater, and the Hong Kong Museum of Art. Signs along the walk discourage antisocial behavior. Our sentiments exactly.
We boarded the Star Ferry for the ride across Victoria Harbor to Central on Hong Kong Island. These ferries have been plying the waters of the harbor for more than 100 years. The upper deck is reserved for first class passengers, who pay a slight premium for deluxe, roomier seating with better views. The lower deck is for ordinary passage. There is not much difference in the fare or the quality of accommodations, but we traveled first class.
Central is the heart of Hong Kong Island. The International Finance Center (IFC) has two office towers, one the tallest on the island, and a sprawling mall. We caught a taxi here to take us to the Yung Kee restaurant for lunch. The streets of Central are tight, steep, and crowded with traffic and commerce. It was a fun ride, but my cold has progressed from head to chest I am prone to uncontrollable fits of coughing. I had one in the cab and we thought the driver was going to stop the car and jump out the window. The Chinese are very germ-conscious and the panic grew on his face with each cough I couldn't stifle. I survived and we made it to our destination.
Yung Kee is legendary in Hong Kong, an institution for 70 years, famous for roast goose, and has won every award there is many times over, including a Michelin star. The concierge at the hotel recommended Chinese sticky rice as well as the roast goose, and gave us a cheat sheet so we could order in Chinese. Yung Kee is in every guide book, but popular with locals too, we were the only Westerners in the house. We placed our order in halting Chinese and added sliced beef with rice noodles that looked good at the next table over. The noodles were great, similar to dishes we had in Malaysia and Singapore, but the Chinese sticky rice was the surprise treat of the meal, sweet and soy salty with preserved sausage and dried shrimps. And the roast goose was amazing. Our first ever Christmas goose, roasted crispy juicy and chopped on the bone, including the head. The skin crackled between your teeth, giving way to a luscious layer of fat, then the succulent flesh of the goose. The skin was the most bacon-like non-bacon we have ever had. Tres is in love.
Dating from the early colonial period, the place to live in Hong Kong has always been the Peak and for more than 120 years, the Peak Tram has delivered the well-healed to the top. We rode the tram to the Peak Tower at the top. Architecture and food are the passions of the people here and they are not impressed with the Peak Tower, which they derisively refer to as "The Wok."
The architecture didn't bother me, but the dizzying heights did. After riding the tram to the top of the Peak, we rode countless escalators to the top of the Wok and the Sky Terrace. Terrifying!!! Views from the Peak are the best in Hong Kong, looking out over the skyline of the island to Victoria Harbor and Kowloon beyond.
Riding tram, taxi, and ferry, we made our way back to Kowloon by early evening, the lights of the city coloring the dusk sky and murky waters of the harbor. We walked by the Peninsula all decked out for the holidays en route to the Sheraton.
Every night at 8:00 Victoria Harbor comes alive with a laser light show. Buildings on both sides of the water light up and lasers cut through the inky darkness of the night sky. The show is more fun than spectacular, but we enjoyed the spectacle from our room before heading to dinner. Cantonese is the cuisine of choice in Hong Kong and the Sheraton is host to one of the very best Cantonese and dim sum restaurants in the city.
"The Celestial Court, with its modern Chinese decor accented by warm burl wood panels and luxurious raw silk tapestries, is renowned for authentic and exquisite Chinese cuisine and hand-prepared dim sum. With the innovation and flair of its decorated chef, the restaurant has been selected as a Hong Kong Best Restaurant for the past decade. Award-winning Chef de Cuisine Chan Sui-kei takes pride in matching his menus to seasonal ingredients. Everything is done in the traditional way, but with a few contemporary touches to bring things into line with modern trends. Celestial Court showcases its versatility with seasonal menus that feature fresh, crunchy vegetables, savoury meats and succulent seafood. “I treat my job as an interest and entertainment. It’s enjoyable. Here, we give clients sophisticated creativity and variety – that’s vital.”"
We sat down to a wide, round table and set out to fill it up. We started with barbecued pork that was absolutely nothing like the sweet, hard, patent leather red chunks of loin served in America. This was soft and luscious roasted pork with crispy skin that squirted with fat and juice with every bite. Then, a series of dishes that would be recognizable to the American Chinese palette, but at another level of taste and quality. More roasted pork, this the house specialty suckling pig; crispy chicken; tender giant shrimp, barely cooked through in a garlicky sauce; a beef dish almost like a Cantonese steak Diane; and a standard fried rice, a step down from the Chinese sticky rice we loved at lunch. It was an incredible meal, just a sample of the vast menu from which we wanted to try everything. Authentic, yet comfortable, The Celestial Court is a celebration destination for locals, a first stop when returning home for expatriates living abroad, and an introduction to true Cantonese cuisine for travelers.
Thursday, December 24th
I was ready for a day of light shopping and heavy rest, but Tres wanted one more cultural adventure, so we parted ways.
One of the great attractions of Hong Kong is to be found on Lantau Island. It is reached by taking the Star Ferry from Kowloon to Central and then the First Ferry from Central to Mui Wo on Lantau. From the ferry dock, it is just a one hour ride on the Number 2 bus to reach enlightenment.
The Po Lin "Precious Lotus" Monastery is a Buddhist temple founded in 1906 by three visiting monks. The main temple houses 3 bronze statues of the Buddha representing his past, present and future lives.
Towering 268 steps high above the sprawling monastery is the Tian Tan Buddha, symbolizing the harmonious relationship between man and nature, man and religion. At 34 meters tall, it was the largest outdoor bronze seated Buddha in the world when it was completed in 1993.
After the grueling climb to the top of the mountain and the treacherous descent back to ground level, and with one last look up at the great Buddha, Tres boarded the bus back to Mui Wo for the ferry rides to Central and Kowloon. The holidays are a traditional time of gathering in Hong Kong and the streets of Kowloon were closed to traffic and filled with throngs of locals out for a stroll on Christmas Eve.
While the locals congregated outside to watch the laser show, we went down the hall to the club lounge for a drink. Same show, but more inspiring with alcohol.
Craving a holiday feast and looking toward home, we had our last dinner in Hong Kong at Morton's in the hotel. Authentic Chinese it was not, but a traditional Morton's experience. The clubby decor would be recognizable to anyone as a Morton's, though the tables were decorated with hats and noisemakers as if for New Year's Eve, not Christmas Eve. We started with colossal shrimp Alexander and broiled sea scallops wrapped in bacon, then USDA prime ribeyes and potatoes, baked and Lyonnaise, finally hot Godiva chocolate cake. This is the most expensive Morton's in the world, though most of their beef is from...gasp...Australia!!! Predictably good and ridiculously rich, we celebrated Christmas Eve in style.
Friday, December 25th
Merry Christmas!!!
A month ago and a world away, we made the pilgrimage to ancient Bethlehem and the very place that marks the birth of Jesus, and now we celebrate the day of His birth in modern Hong Kong. This will be the longest Christmas ever as we travel home, 40 hours with the time change.
We started the day with one last look at the view, and a swim and a soak in the pools, from the rooftop of the Sheraton.
After breakfast in the Sky Lounge, we walked next door to the Peninsula to finish our Christmas shopping.
Hong Kong is one of the great cities of the world and we look forward to returning, but our journey is at an end and it is time to go home.
We were scheduled to fly:
Cathay Pacific Flight 0838
Hong Kong to Vancouver
Departing 4:45 PM
Arriving 12:05 PM
Flight Time: 11 Hours 20 Minutes
Alaska Airlines Flight 2033
Vancouver to Seattle
Departing 3:40 PM
Arriving 4:35 PM
Flight Time: 55 Minutes
The smog was so thick in Hong Kong that our equipment couldn't land. So, we were delayed. One hour, then two... We were lucky to spend the time in the comfort of the Cathay Pacific business class lounge. With plush seats and the Noodle Bar, we didn't want to leave. Finally, our flight was called and we boarded the 747-400 and climbed the stairs into the hump. We have been dreading this flight, but we survived unscathed.
Cathay Pacific has an innovative configuration in Business Class. Each passenger has a semi-private pod, one on each side of the aisle. The pods are in an arrow-head formation, at a 45 degree angle to the aisle. They are claustrophobic with high sides, but the seats lay flat for sleeping and there is full AC power so Tres could plug in the apparatus and get a good night's sleep, along with the rest of the passengers. There is a large wide-screen TV that adjusts to any angle, complete with movies, current TV, and music. The tray table is large and comfortable allowing for mid-air blogging. If you have to fly for more than 11 hours across the ocean and over the pole, this is the way to go.
We landed in Vancouver too late to catch our connecting flight to Seattle. We cleared customs in a breeze with our Nexus cards and waited for the next flight. After circumnavigating the globe by air and sea, we made the final leg home in our sleep.
Arriving home in Edmonds to a cold house and an empty fridge on Christmas night, we set out looking for Christmas dinner. The stores were closed, our favorite restaurants too. So, our Trip of a Lifetime, and the longest Christmas ever, ended with Christmas dinner...at Denny's.
Thursday, December 24, 2009
Singapore, Singapore
Singapore, Singapore
Mostly Sunny with Showers - Mid 80s
Sunday, December 20th
Happy Birthday Ted!!!
Route of the Ancient Traders
Day 40 - Disembarkation
M/S Nautica
The sun broke through the clouds this morning as M/S Nautica sailed into our final port of call on the Route of the Ancient Traders, Singapore. Before we can say hello to Singapore, we must say goodbye, to this lovely ship and her gracious crew, to the friends we have made from around the world, and to the seafaring journey we began more than a month ago and half a world away in Istanbul.
We bid farewell to our cabin stewards Anastasia and Gedde; our Butler Ray; our favorites among the dining staff, Ana and Salome; the best ShoreEx crew afloat, Nicki, Sarita, Ericka, and Raquel; our friends from Australia John and Kay, John and Margaret, and David and his wife who had lived and worked in Dubai; our esteemed guest lecturer and friend Doug Sturkey; our Canadian friends and librarians Peter and Jean; and our favorite fellow American passengers Wendy from California and Ken from Tennessee. These are the people who added joy and meaning to our travels and we will miss them the rest of the way. We hope to cross paths with each of them again.
Even with all our new friends in mind, old friends are in our thoughts as well as we wish Ted a Happy Birthday!!!
Singapore, an island city-state of more than 4 million people, won its independence from Malaysia in 1965. It is the point of the exclamation that is the Malaysian Peninsula. Singapore is a major international financial center and a world city. It is home to more than 20 banks and offices representing corporations from around the world. The global financial crisis has hit Singapore hard, the rate of unemployment skyrocketing from just 2.5% to a whopping 3.2% Singapore, even reeling, is the envy of the world. The social safety net here is strong. More than 80% of citizens reside in subsidized public housing with subsidized mortgages backed by the government. There are subsidies for having children, for extended families to live near each other, even for live-in nannies. There is also significant government control. The laws are strict and penalties severe. Contrary to popular belief, it is legal to possess, and chew, gum. Just don't sell it, spit it into the street, or stick it to the bottom of a park bench. Singapore is clean, green, orderly, and easy to navigate, the only Asian country with English as its first language.
The name Singapore comes from the Sanskrit Singa Pura, or Lion City, and the distinctive symbol of Singapore is the Merlion statue, the head of a lion on the body of a fish riding a crest of waves. From a park high atop a Northern hill, we enjoyed a panorama of the city.
The jewel in the crown of Singapore is the stunning Botanic Gardens, with a superb collection of tropical plant life. Dedicated in 1859 and spread over 128 acres, the Gardens hold over 4,000 species, including many rare specimens. This lush tropical park houses the world's largest orchid collection, featuring more than 20,000 plants displayed in a natural setting. We covered just a small part of the 7.4 acre National Orchid Garden. Miles of paths winding through meticulously manicured beds, fountains and arches providing refuge from the sun. The orchids are vivid bursts of color popping out from every corner against a backdrop of tropical green, sprays of orchids like fireworks in the night sky. Just incredible!!!
We continued our tour of the city to the famous Grand Dame of Singapore, the Raffles Hotel. Opened in 1887, the Raffles is the ultimate in Colonial Oriental hospitality.
Merlion Park affords a great view of the harbor and the fountain that is the symbol of the city.
Now well acquainted with Singapore, we stepped off our very last tour bus of the trip and checked into the Fairmont Singapore. This modern high-rise hotel was once part of the Raffles complex and is just across the street from the fabled hotel. It is the best of both worlds: great location and the comforts of modern convenience.
We are tired. I am sick. We took a long nap.
Our friend Wendy from the ship was on her own in Singapore and staying at the Fairmont as well. She joined us in the Executive Club Lounge for cocktails. We toasted the end of a great adventure with Champagne.
Tres was horrified, but I wanted a hamburger for dinner. Yes, I know, what a waste. We are in one of the world's great fusion food cities and I was craving the lowest common denominator of American food. Sick with a bad cold and drunk on a cocktail of Airborne and Vodka (it was an accident...don't ever make the mistake of pouring vodka into an empty water bottle when your head isn't clear), all I wanted was some comfort food.
On the advice of the concierge, we crossed the street to the Raffles and the Seah Street Deli. This is a Disneyfied re-creation of a 1950s New York Deli/Diner. We have entered a Bizarro World. You can't point your figure at exactly what is wrong, yet nothing is quite right. The menu and the decor must have been designed by someone who has never been to New York, to a deli or diner, or to the 1950s, yet is generally familiar with the genre from pop culture. We had an OK dinner of burgers, fries, and shakes served by very earnest and eager Singaporeans. As the waitress presented the check, she asked how authentic the experience was. We told her it was spot-on.
Monday, December 21st
Well-rested after a night of luxury at the Fairmont, we were ready to hit the streets of Singapore, but much of the good food has come off the streets and indoors. Singaporeans take good food seriously and they are justifiably proud of their dining culture, but their traditions are rooted in Chinese, Malaysian, and Indian cooking. The city was once dominated by hawker stalls that lined the streets and fed the lines of rich and poor alike with cheap and delicious peasant food. For better or worse, this great tradition of street food has been collectivized and sanitized. The government rounded up the hawker stands and put them into "food centres," food courts of small, independent stands selling the same street food, but in cleaner better controlled settings. The streets aren't even necessary for walking anymore, with a vast underground network connecting most of the city.
We set out from the hotel through a series of underground malls, hotels, office buildings, and transit stations to the Food Republic hawker centre. This may not be the best, most famous, or most authentic of the food centres in Singapore. In fact, it's actually in the convention centre. But, it is the most convenient. After making several tours of the 18 stalls, we started with one of the most traditional of Singapore hawker dishes, Hainanese chicken rice. Derived from the Chinese original, chicken rice is considered by many to be the national dish of Singapore. Whole chickens are boiled in a richly flavored stock, shocked in an ice bath, and served at room temperature. It is ordered either white or dark, which does not refer to the meat, but the skin, the dark variation colored with soy. The chicken is chopped into half-inch sections on the bone, plated with white rice, and kissed with a light sesame dressing and chili sauce on the side. Our dark half-chicken was moist and tender, juices dribbling down our chins. The true flavor of the chicken sings through the simple preparation. The skin was a little off-putting, gelatinous from the water treatment, but we got used to it. We followed with a Chinese roast duck. Also chopped into finger-sized hunks on the bone, the duck was tougher and harder to eat than the chicken, less subtle, but with more flavor. The skin was shellacked crispy sweet, like skin candy. It was served with a vinegar-based ginger dipping sauce. We finished with freshly baked faintly sweet rolls from the Toast Box. Each roll has two halves that pull apart a cleft in the golden crust to reveal a light fluffy fragrant soft crumb. These were my find, and they may have been the best of the day.
Wendy joined us once again for cocktail hour this evening. We crossed to the Raffles and the legendary Long Bar for a Singapore Sling, the fruity tropical signature drink sensation created here in 1915. We enjoyed the conversation, and a round of outstanding shrimp spring rolls, but the Long Bar and Singapore Sling traditions are overrated. The bar itself is a re-creation of the original, tropical tacky with wicker furniture and peanut shells on the floor. They are, by the way, the tiniest peanuts you will ever find, hard, shrivelled, and stale like testicles shrunken by steroids. The Slings were refreshing, if not stiff, but ludicrously expensive. Many thanks to Wendy for treating!!! We wish her well on the journey back to Santa Barbara!!!
The Magnificent Mile of Singapore is Orchard Road, once a country lane flanked by fruit orchards and nutmeg plantations, now vertical malls with high-end boutiques, restaurants, and luxury hotels line the grand boulevard that has become the commercial center of Singapore. Orchard Road is the best place to walk and shop in the city year round, but it is transformed into a magical wonderland at Christmas. Singapore is not a Christian country, but it is an international capital of capitalism with expatriates and tourists from all over the world. They go all out for Christmas. This is the 25th anniversary of the Orchard Road Christmas Light-Up, 5km of lights, garlands, baubles, and decorations, more than 100,000 hours of labor in the making. We took a taxi to the Ion center, one of the premier malls near the top of Orchard Road and took a walk down the boulevard taking in the splendor. It was a spectacular night. The whole city was out. Throngs of people filled the sidewalks and spilled into the streets; young couples on dates; families for a night out, parents finishing their shopping, kids running and jumping through the festivities; and old folks watching the world go by. Stages of carolers lined every block. All of this in a humid 75 degrees. Awesome and inspiring!!!
On our last night in Singapore, we wanted the best of local cuisine, no more convention center food courts or hotel restaurants. OK...one more hotel restaurant. The Grand Hyatt Singapore has taken the hawker centre to the extreme with Straits Kitchen, a multiethnic buffet featuring separate sections representing Chinese, Malaysian, and Indian food. It's got to be legit: Anthony Bourdain went there on "No Reservations." They are famous for juice so Tres ordered green guava, all the tropical love of pink guava juice in the color of kiwi. We started with fresh spring rolls, rolled to order. Then soup, souped to order. Rich broths form the base of six different soups with various proteins, vegetables, and starches. Our wonton and Thai curry soups were outstanding on their own, but customized and transformed by a dizzying array of garnishes. Next, satays: chicken, beef, and lamb. Then, beef rendang, char kuay teow, chicken rice, and chili crabs, the other national dish of Singapore, crab in the shell swimming in garlicky chili sauce. Already full, we made a final pass through the Indian station and then topped it off with fruit and ginger ice creams.
We took a taxi down the length of Orchard Road, under the garlands and lights, and back to the Fairmont.
Singapore is a compromise, a tradeoff of comfort and security for a measure of freedom. It is both familiar and unique, ordinary and exotic. We could be happy here, for a night or a lifetime. For now, just the former.
Tuesday, December 22nd
We woke up this morning to a new reality unique on this journey since we left home almost two months ago: we will travel to our next destination by air instead of by sea, on our own, without a crew of hundreds. We hit the hotel breakfast buffet and returned to the room to pack for airport security and our flight to Hong Kong:
Cathay Pacific Flight 734
Singapore to Hong Kong
Departing 4:25 PM
Arriving 8:10 PM
Flight Time: 3 Hours 45 Minutes
Next Stop, Last Stop: Hong Kong, China