The Uphill Run to San Diego

Saturday, November 3rd
South Pacific
Day 35 - Disembarkation
ms Westerdam
San Diego, California
Arriving:  7:00 AM

The Crosby, Stills, and Nash hit "Southern Cross" that inspired this adventure tells the tale of a one-way journey:

Got out of town on a boat
Goin' to Southern islands.
Sailing a reach
Before a followin' sea.
She was makin' for the trades
On the outside,
And the downhill run
To Papeete.

We have done all of that and more, but this is a full circle cruise, and we have had the last six days at sea, on the uphill run to San Diego.  Six days of the Exploration Speaker Series and the Hydropool & Thermal Suites.  Six days of 75 degrees and mostly/partly sunny/cloudy.

The crew is always a highlight of any cruise, and the crew art auction was a highlight of this one.  My friend Diana in the Explorations Cafe is the best Beverage Attendant at sea, a total sweetheart, and a talented painter.  I would love to bring her home with me, but I will have to settle for her paintings.

Virtually every quotation ever uttered has been attributed to Mark Twain at one time or another, but I am reminded of this one as we reach the end of our time together in the South Pacific:

“I have found out there ain't no surer way to find out whether you like people or hate them than to travel with them.”

Now that's a bit harsh.  It wasn't that bad.  There remains a lot of love between us, and certainly no hate.  But, it is fair to say that travel has brought out some of the worst in each of us, and not nearly enough of the best.  Long and abiding friendships have been strained.  That has colored our impressions of this journey of more than a month and 10,000 nautical miles.  We have many beautiful pictures, and a few ugly memories.  Travel is always a contrast in bitter/sweet, this trip maybe more so than most.

Next Stop...

 

Nuku Hiva

Saturday, October 27th
South Pacific
Day 28
ms Westerdam
Nuku Hiva, French Polynesia
Marquesas Islands
Arriving:  10:00 AM
Departing:  6:00 PM
Mostly Sunny - 80 Degrees

At anchor in Taiohae Bay, Nuku Hiva appears to have a peaceful rustic charm, but this is the wild and woolly bad boy island of French Polynesia.  The Taipivai Valley is the setting for both the Herman Melville 1846 Novel "Typee" and 2001's "Survivor Marquesas."  Nobody's getting voted off the island this time, but we hope our survival skills aren't put to the test before sailaway.

We caught a tender for shore, visited the marketplace, and made a local friend.

With the moon rising off the bow to port, and Nuku Hiva receding at the stern, it's a six-day sail North by Northwest to our...

Last Stop:  San Diego

Papeete

Wednesday, October 24th
South Pacific
Day 25
ms Westerdam
Papeete, French Polynesia
Tahiti
Society Islands
Arriving:  7:30 AM
Sunny - 82 Degrees

Slight winds, calm seas, sunny skies, and a pilot boat escort guided us gently into port this morning, a stark contrast to the 13 degrees of drift keeping Westerdam out to sea the night before.

Not just the gateway to paradise, but a working port with a view.

Out on the bow to capture arrival, we also caught a sneak peek into the Officers' Lounge, the only crew bar above decks and directly below the bridge.  A party in white with stripes.

We have finally arrived, the Southernmost point in our journey, and the end of "...the downhill run to Papeete."  We are alongside in the capital of French Polynesia on the island of Tahiti.  This is as nice a port and pier as we have visited, leading directly into the Jardins de Paofai.

Tahiti is no plain vanilla destination, but it does boast the very best vanilla in the world.  We went shopping and got the goods at the Marché de Papeete.  This is the real deal, lush pods, black as night, sticky with sweetness, and bursting with seeds.  Everybody gets some when we get home.

After a visit to Papeete's other bon marché, the Vaima Center, a light lunch and a respite from the sun at L'Oasis de Vaima:

Hinano Tahiti Beer
Plats du Jour
Veal
Fish
Fries, Rice, Pasta
Rum Rasin Ice Cream

Dinner was a more formal affair, haute cuisine in the South Pacific, 7:30 PM reservations at L'O a la Bouche.

Mai Tais
Taro Chips & Hummus
Red Tuna Carpaccio
                with Tomato-Caper Pesto, Mushrooms, Sprouts and Herbs
Scallop & Apple Brochette and Salad
                with Warm Bacon Dressing
Spice-Crusted Seared Duck Breast in Honey Sauce
Gratin Dauphinois
Ratatouille
Steamed Vegetables
Profiteroles

Tres and Ted snuck off the ship for a midnight snack at the Place Vaiete Roulottes, Papeete's pier-side night market of caravans.  Overconfident with a French phrase for a name, Tres ordered in French, but realized when it came time to pay that he didn't know what came after un, deux, trois.  Très gênant.  Fortunately, the numbers look the same when you write them down, and the fusion feast was on.

Shrimp Fried Rice
Nutella Crepe

Thursday, October 25th
South Pacific
Day 26
ms Westerdam
Papeete, French Polynesia
Tahiti
Society Islands
Departing:  3:00 PM
Partly Cloudy - 78 Degrees

Papeete, Part Deux, began with a stroll into the Jardins de Paofai, really just a waterfront promenade and boat launch, at once pretty and gritty.

At the end of the Jardins, we found Place To'ata, Papeete's festival grounds, today hosting the Home Show.  We didn't buy a house, but we did have a snack of churros & ice cream to fortify for one more destination, the Parc Bouganville.

The lovely streetside cafe Patachoux offered a late lunch before our return to the ship for afternoon sailaway.

Ham & Cheese Baguette
Ham & Cheese Quiche
Duck Confit Sandwich
Claufuti de Poire
Chocolate Fondant

Next Stop:  Nuku Hiva, French Polynesia

Moorea, More or Less

Tuesday, October 23rd
South Pacific
Day 24
ms Westerdam
Bahia d' Opunoha
Moorea, French Polynesia
Society Islands
Arriving:  7:00 AM
Departing:  6:00 PM
Mostly Cloudy - 78 Degrees
Chance of Rain, Wind, & Thunderstorms

Albert's 4x4 Adventure Tour

I am definitely up for a little adventure.

Now that's a hairpin turn.

\

Opunohu Bay from Magical Mountain - 209 Meters.

Mt Rotui from the Belvedere Lookout, Opunohu Bay on the left, Cook's Bay on the right.

Cute Chicken

Mr. Belvedere's Hat

Another day, another marae, Marae Afareaito.

And, of course, a little agritourism for a sweet and saucy ending to a cloudy day.  Stops at Lycee Agricole D'Opunohu for marmalades & confitures, and Distillerie et Usine de Jus de Fruits de Morea for...jus de fruits.  Both just desserts.

Next Stop:  Papeete, French Polynesia

POSTPONED - We were due for a late night 9:00 PM arrival in Papeete, a mere 30 nautical miles from our anchorage in Opunohu Bay, but 60 knot winds had Westerdam drifting at 13 degrees, too close for comfort to navigate the 100m-wide channel leading to the dock in Nanuu Bay.  Let's spend the night at sea, and try again in the morning.

Bora Bora

Sunday, October 21st
South Pacific
Day 22
ms Westerdam
Bora Bora, French Polynesia
Society Islands
Arriving:  7:00 AM
Sunny - 84 Degrees

"After the end of World War II, some American soldiers stationed on Bora Bora didn't want to leave. In fact, they stayed until their families back home began complaining. It's hard to blame the soldiers. James Michener called the island the most beautiful in the world, and used it as inspiration for his Bali Hai. The island's mountains, beaches, and lagoons form the very archetype of a tropical paradise"

Arriving with the sun this morning, it would be hard to disagree.

To have any hope at all of getting your bearings on an atoll, nothing beats an Island Circumnavigation by Jet Boat & Snorkel, and the jet boat picked us up right from the ship.  As we jetted away sitting saddle-style astride the seats, the first view was back at Westerdam, far more than "80 feet of the waterline."

Our evening walkabout in Vaitape was a failure.  The famous Bloody Mary's was closed.  So too the Yacht Club.  The Community Center, Singing Bus, and Top Dive provided brief respites of entertainment, then back on board for dinner at the Pinnacle Grill.

Monday, October 22nd
South Pacific
Day 23
ms Westerdam
Bora Bora, French Polynesia
Society Islands
Departing:  5:00 PM
Sunny - 84 Degrees

An island so nice they named it twice deserves a second day.  So, today we reached for the pinnacle of paradise, The St. Regis Bora Bora.  But today started the same as yesterday, with pickup shipside for the ride to the St. Regis.

"Offering the most exclusive island accommodations in the region, this sprawling 44-acre resort matches blissful Polynesian paradise with flawless signature service."

"The debut of The St. Regis Bora Bora Resort in the mythical archipelago of the South Pacific, features a number of firsts in French Polynesia—including five over water villas with private swimming pools suspended over the lagoon, two secluded beach villas with access to a private helicopter pad, and an extraordinary, world-class spa and fitness center located on its own private island.  From the Oasis Pool, our own natural wonder; to the central pool, with a swim-up bar; to the saltwater private lagoon, full of native fish and stingrays—dive into the many pleasures of paradise."

We were greeted with scented cool towels and vanilla iced tea to refresh form the morning's travels, and left somewhere between poolside and beachside to settle in for the day.

Lunch al fresco had a Mediterranean flare. "Te Pahu Restaurant, boasts beachside dining and features Executive Chef Romuald Feger's exquisite taste."

Sprawling indeed, Marion Gibert gave us a tour of the resort after lunch.  44 acres is plenty to get lost in.  Sadly, she kept us on a pretty short leash.  Tut tut, hut hut.

With the orientation complete, Tres set out to take the tour again from the water.  You can snorkel under the bridge, out of the lagoon, all the way around to the other side of the resort, and back again just in time for a rinse before the ride back to the ship.

Next Stop:  Moorea, French Polynesia