Monday, November 14, 2011

Devil's Island

Saturday, November 12th
Amazing Amazon
Day 19
M/S Regatta
Devil's Island, French Guiana
Arriving: 8:00 AM
Departing: 4:00 PM
Partly Cloudy - 90 Degrees

Most cruise lines don't make port calls at penal colonies, but Oceania is committed to unique destinations.

Devil's Island is part of a three island chain, Iles du Salut, six nautical miles off the coast of French Guiana. These islands were a notorious French penal colony from 1852 to 1952. Commitment to Devil's Island amounted to a death sentence to the 80,000 criminals and political prisoners who were sent here, most never to be seen again. If they survived the disease, violence, and harsh conditions of prison long enough to serve out their sentences, they were forced to remain in French Guiana for the rest of their lives. A troubling past for a tropical paradise, now a faded memory. Devil's Island is the only ile of the three that is open to the public, part historical site, and part nature reserve.

More than 50,000 people a year visit this island of Heaven and Hell. There is a ferry from the mainland, pleasure craft dot the harbor, and the public pier is always busy. Families with French accents roam the island, fishing from the shoreline, and camping among the trees. A path leads all the way around, a pleasant stroll through the lush tropical forest of palm trees, historic buildings given back to nature overlooking the rocks and surf below. A giant staircase of well-worn stone leads up to a museum that tells the story of the island. The stairs continue from there up to the crest of the island 131 feet above sea level. A small rustic hotel occupies the former administration building at the "Top of the Rock."


We walked the walk and climbed the climb. When it was time to go, we were free to do so.

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