The Sacred Valley

Friday, March 15th

Urubamba, Peru

OK, we made it, but where to exactly, and how high is it???

We flew into the ancient Inka capital of Cusco.  It is an historical and archeological destination in its own right, but it is most famous as the gateway to Machu Picchu, and the trailhead of the Inka Trail.  Cusco is 11,000 feet above sea level, and altitude sickness is a concern.

The altitude is a minor annoyance for most, a major source of discomfort for some, and can sometimes be really dangerous.  We are hale and hardy, not unaffected, but not mightily suffering either.  It has been described as a hangover, and that's pretty accurate.  We have mild headaches, some stomach uneasiness, and occasional dizziness and shortness of breath.

Machu Picchu is at about 8,000 feet above sea level, still a Rocky Mountain High, but much more manageable.  In fact, that is about the elevation of Aspen.

We decided to stay somewhere in the middle, both in terms of geography and elevation.  The Sacred Valley lies between Cusco and Machu Picchu, running along the Urubamba River.  The town of Urubamba is the heart of the valley, at an elevation of about 9,500 feet above sea level, and the home of the Inka del Tambo Resort and Spa.

Many thanks to Dave and Jimmy for the recommendation, now one of our top five favorite accommodations worldwide.  It is both authentically Peruvian and luxuriously comfortable.  The award-winning architecture complements the valley without dominating it.  It is modern and yet firmly rooted in the history of the Inkas.  And the spectacular setting is just the stage for first class hospitality.

We arrived to a warm welcome and a cup of coca tea in the lobby, the local remedy for altitude sickness.  It's a loose leaf tea made with the whole leaves of the coca plant.  Yes, that is the same plant from which cocaine is derived.  No, it doesn't make you high, though it is a stimulant and is not recommended before bed.  It's technically not legal to travel with.  And, it tastes awful.

We followed that with lunch al fresco overlooking the river, and our obligatory club sandwich, a tradition of international travel.  This was a very fine version.

CLUB SÁNDWICH 

Pollo al grill, jamón, queso Edam, tocino, huevo, tomate y lechuga en pan blanco o integral.

White o wheat bread, grilled chicken breast, ham, Edam cheese, bacon, fried egg, tomatoes and lettuce.

The room has a sense of place and calm.

A nap, a swim in the indoor/outdoor pool, and a soak in the hot tub finished out the afternoon.

Dinner at Restaurante Hawa was a more traditional affair.  Ceviche, raw fresh fish brisk with lime, spiked with chili, and garnished with Andean produce is the national dish.  This one with locally farmed trout was outstanding.  As was Peruvian meat and potatoes, in the form of a stir-fry and a stew.  Tough in texture, tender in flavor.

CEVICHE DE TRUCHA DE LAS ALTURAS

TROUT CEVICHE

Leche de tigre con sabores andinos, camote, papa, cochayuyo a 3000 msnm, cebolla y ajíes peruanos. Andean marinade flavors, sweet potato, potatoes and cochayuyo grown to 3000 meters above sea level, onion, chili.

TRADICIONAL LOMO SALTADO AHUMADO

TRADITIONAL PERUVIAN SAUTÉED BEEF DICES

Cebolla, tomate, culantro, ají amarillo, salsa de carne, soya y  vinagre, arroz y papas huayro fritas. Onion, tomato, coriander, yellow chili, soy sauce, vinegar, rice and fried huayro potatoes.

PACHAMANCA CUSQUEÑA COCCIÓN ANCESTRAL

INKA´S STYLE PACHAMANCA Cordero, pollo, alpaca, choclo, camote, olluco, papas andinas, zapallo, habas y col, aderezados con hierbas andinas y ajíes peruanos. Lamb, chicken, alpaca loin, sweet potatoes, olluco, andean potatoes, pumpkin, broad beans and cabbage seasoned with aromatic herbs and peruvian chili.

(Photos courtesy of El Tambo.)

Next Stop:  Machu Picchu