Tres' Birthday
Seabourn Sojourn
San Juan, Puerto Rico
Arriving: 8:00 AM
Departing: 5:00 PM
Partly Sunny with Showers - 84 Degrees
Puerto Rico, the least of the Greater Antilles, has been a commonwealth of the United States since it was ceded by Spain, along with Guam and the Philippines, by the Treaty of Paris at the end of the Spanish-American war in 1898. The end of more than 400 years of Spanish colonial rule began with American colonial rule, but gradually led to increasing self-governance under US control. Puerto Ricans are citizens of the United States and elect a governor and bicameral legislature. They are subject to all acts of Congress "not locally inapplicable," and are represented by a non-voting member of congress. Puerto Rican sovereignty continues to be the focus of public debate to determine whether the island nation should pursue independence or statehood. In a non-binding 2012 referendum, 54% rejected the status quo, with 61% supporting statehood in a separate question.
The future of Puerto Rico is still to be determined, but the past is rich with history. San Juan is an American city, but it is considered the most Spanish city in the Caribbean. Old San Juan was founded in 1521, and is graced with elegant 16th and 17th century Spanish colonial architecture. Now a US National Historic Zone, more than 400 buildings have been restored. The streets are narrow, steeply rising up from the water, and paved with adoquines, beautiful blue glazed bricks imported from Spain as ballast. The full spectrum of blue is represented on each brick fading in and out from deep and intense to light and translucent. They are as treacherous as they are beautiful, jagged and jarring, and slippery when wet. And they are wet today. We walked off the ship to a torrential downpour. With only a day in San Juan, we didn't have the luxury of waiting it out. As we walked through the city, the rain would come and go, and the sun would come and go, leaving us both soaked, and sunburned.
We paid our respects to the remains of the Spanish explorer and conquistador Juan Ponce de Leon, the first Spanish governor of Puerto Rico, at Catedral de San Juan Bautista. Rebuilt and destroyed many times since its beginnings in 1520, the current sanctuary dates from the 19th century. While the glory of God glows ever brighter, the glory of the Catedral is fading.
Old San Juan has some lovely parks and squares, both old and new. Plaza V Centenario is one of the latter.
We stopped at Don Ruiz Coffee in Las Americas Museum for a refresher and a respite from the rain, while Spanish guitars played in the courtyard. It is housed in the former Cuartel de Ballaja, the infantry quarters, and fronted by another of San Juan's new parks, the Plaza de Ballaja.
The remains of two great fortresses stand sentry over Old San Juan. Castillo San Cristobal, a National Historic Site built in stages from 1634 to 1785, was the "Gibraltar of the West Indies." Castillo San Felipe del Morro, or just "El Morro," is "the promontory." Perched on a rocky promontory at the northwest tip of Old San Juan, this sprawling six-level fort is spectacular, rising 140 feet above the sea. Built over nearly 250 years from 1540 to 1783, it is a warren of turrets, towers, and tunnels with commanding views out over the harbor and back toward Old San Juan.
El Morro is the ultimate fortress experience, a well-preserved historic fort, set in an incomparable location. It could have been medieval England, it was Spanish colonial, and it is all American.
The birthday celebration kicked into high gear back aboard ship. The cabin was decked out with a banner, a balloon, and a cupcake, soon to be followed by birthday wishes and a bottle of wine from the captain. Four years ago on this day, we were floating in the Red Sea aboard Oceania Nautica, luxuriating in the Thalassotherapy pool high above the bow, watching dolphins play in the sun. Today, we were floating in the Atlantic Ocean aboard the Seabourn Sojourn, luxuriating in the hot tub on the bow, watching San Juan recede in the pouring rain as thunder and lightning closed in. Everything else different, the joy the same.
Restaurant 2 is Sojourn's special occasion restaurant, and this is a special occasion. It's a modern room in black lacquer and red velvet, the menu set in nine courses, with matching wines from the premium collection. Johannes from South Africa presented the food, Sebastian from Argentina poured the wine. It was an evening of hits and misses, but every swing was for the fences. Our favorite was the corndog / kafta / parcel trio, each hot and crispy, unique and flavorful, paired with its own luscious schmear. The salsify and apple cappuccino was a surprise success, the odd couple in perfect harmony, silken smooth. The duck was outstanding as well, pink and pleasant, tender to the touch. The California chardonnay was the best of the wines, acid, oak, and citrus in perfect balance, and our hearts always melt for ice wine.
Restaurant 2 Menu:
- Perrier-Jouet Grand Brut, Epernay, France
- Chef's Cocktail: Grilled Octopus Ceviche, Fennel Salad, Lemon Grape Juice
- Pommard, Louis Latour, Burgundy, France
- Lobster Corndog, Truffle Sauce
- Crisp Lamb Kofta, Sun Dried Tomato Coulis
- Chicken Brick Parcel, Mustard Dip
- Butternut Squash Presse, Foie Gras Sandwich
- Salsify & Apple Cappuccino, Mushroom Crostini
- Hanzell Chardonnay, Sonoma County, California
- Roasted Sockeye Salmon in Sake Ginger Brine, Melted Cous Cous
- Orange Soy Burberry Duck, Artichoke Tart Tatin, Quince Puree, Prosciuto Sauce
- Inniskillin Vidal, Ice Wine, Canada
- Florentine & Pumpkin Nougtatine, Banana Toffee, Sauterne, Bourbon Ice Cream
- Birthday Cake
Next Stop: St. Kitts
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